(from the March 1970 edition of The Hallmark)

"You're going where, sonny boy?"
"To Africa, mother, with ASA."
"The Army's in Africa? But that's the end of the earth."
("Yeah Maw...but it ain't at the same end that Vietnam is!" - ED)
Yes, the Army is in Africa. On the western edge of sun-drenched Asmara, Ethiopia's second largest city and the provincial capital of Eritrea, is Kagnew Station, America's only African military installation south of the Sahara; and with the imminent departure of Wheelus Air Base in Libya, the only one on the African continent.

And Kagnew Station is not at the end of the earth, rather at the beginning of it. Dr. L.S.B. Leakey's (British archeologist) work in the Olduvai Gorge has established East Africa as the probable birthplace of that irascible creature, man. The Bushman roamed the mountainsides of Ethiopia thousands of years ago, just as the GI does today on his motorcycle.

Ethiopia, and particularly Eritrea, is a land rich in history. Following the bushman and the Stone Age came the migrations of the Sabaean peoples from present-day Yemen, lending a distinct Arabic influence. In 200 A.D., one of the great civilizations of Africa arose - the Axumite kingdoms - becoming Christian in the third century, and later disintegrating under the pressure of the Arabic assaults from the north.

The next significant invaders were the Italians who came in 1861. In 1896, they lost the Battle of Aduwa to the Ethiopians and won the distinction of being the only European nation defeated by an African one. After the battle, however, Eritrea was ceded to Italy by the Ethiopian Emperor, Menilik II, as a precaution against future assaults and possible loss of his country's independence.

For 60 years the Italians governed Eritrea, and Asmara grew under Italian control, accounting for the decidedly Mediterranean flavor of the city today.
The Italians were followed by the conquering British in 1941 who administered the area under United Nations auspices. In 1950, Eritrea joined Ethiopia once again. (Joined? I dont think so! They were forced to...ask the former members of the " Eritrean Liberation Front " who now govern what has become a seperate country! - ED) The influence of all these civilizations remain, however, in the blood and tongues of the people - it is not uncommon for an Eritrean with little formal schooling to speak five languages.

Kagnew Station was officially established in 1953, when the Army Security Agency took over a small British communications base. Today it has expanded to nine sites with additional Army and navy strategic communications units, as well as a small Air Force weather detachment, that makes for a population of 3,500, including dependants.

But perhaps you are not interested in archeology, history and languages. Maybe you just want good, healthy fun. Well, Asmara is the right place. (Spooks Alley, The Green Doors, Mama K's etc. etc. - ED)

Ethiopia promises 13 months of sunshine, (the country operates on the Julian calendar with twelve 30-day months and one 5-day month) and it's not an empty boast. The rains come mostly in July and August, but even during those months, only for several hours a day. What's more, the city sits on a 7600-foot plateau that provides pleasantly cool evenings and a yearly mean temperature of 62 degrees.(And when it doesn't rain, they would turn the water on for 1 hour a day...and if you were on the job during that hour..you got funky real fast!- ED)

Sport is king in this ideal climate. The only concession to the weather is a second basketball season during the rainy weather. The station's excellent facilities include: a fine gymnasium; softball stadium; outdoor handball court; tennis courts; Olymipic-size swimming pool; and, 10 bowling lanes. In addition, Asmara offers a golf course which features sand greens without the creeping-bent sand traps. Since the post is engaged in 11 sports, these facilities are fully utilized and competition is keen for the Commander's Trophy.

The station also participates in the 10-sport Mediterranean Sports Conference, comprised of personnel stationed at Air Force bases in the Mediterranean area. Thus soldiers with talent get opportunities to play on the athletics fields of Greece and Turkey. In 1969, Kagnew teams advanced to the Air force European finals in basketball, wrestling, judo and track. (and Beer Drinking - ED)

There are also many clubs devoted to the practice of some of the more esoteric sports. If you have your own athletic fantasy, you can generally find 10 others to share it with you, and from a club. Presently there are karate, boxing and judo clubs.(The Grossness Club- ED)

Recreational facilities are not confined to Asmara however, as Kagnew has two rest and relaxation centers off the mountain. To the west in the picturesque Moslem city of Keren, Kagnew Station rents a spacious Italian villa. (Home of the famous beer drinking Donkey and Dog - ED) The ride down is as beautiful as any you'll see and more than likely, you'll be sharing the road with camels which are the main beasts of burden for the area.(Not to mention stick bundle bearing ancient women..frequent causalties of motorcycle accidents - ED)

Keren is noted for its silver market and grotesquely beautiful baobab trees. The silver market is Keren's center for tranquility and good food, though there are plenty of activities to keep the more energetic entertained.

Thirty-five are miles and 75 tortuous road miles(over 50 , 60 degree grade, 180 degree "switchbacks" with 1000 ft drops on one side- ED )off the other side of the mountain lies Massawa, Ethiopia's main port on the Red Sea and the entrance for most of Kagnew's supplies. The city which is actually three islands connected by causeways is one of the hottest places in the world during the summer, with temperatures climbing to 120 degrees during the day. (and stays there at night..the Red Seas is an unpleasant 75 plus degrees of warm water-ED)The rest of the year is pleasantly warm, and the modern 32-room Red Sea Rest Center is a jumping-off point for sun and water enthusiasts. (R&R Center was built to counter the Hotel built by Haillie Selassies other backers the USSR-ED).

The center owns a J-Boat that can be chartered for deep-sea fishing and overnight trips out to the primitive Dahlak Islands. It also has speedboats for water skiing, and lends out equipment for skin diving. (The luckiest draftee in the Army lived, ate, wore civvies, and "worked" there with his crew of locals taking out G.I.'s water skiiing and scuba diving on the "J" boat he had trained to operate at Ft. Belvoir after being drafted from the landlocked mid-west in 1967-68!-ED)


Back on "the Hill,"(I never heard the mountain referred to as a "hill" .. 8500 ft above sea level ain't no hill-ED) as Kagnewites call their plateau home, there are many offerings outside the realm of the athletic. Special Services has well-equipped auto, ceramic and woodcraft shops. And again, there are numerous clubs such as bridge, square dancing, flying, horseback riding, as well as two thespian groups that have been averaging one live production a month, and the Kagnew Chorale which generally gives a concert every season. (Hey chump .. you forgot the infamous "midnight flicks"...the greatest show on earth -ED)

If it's self-improvement you want, the Kagnew Education Center is one of the most active in the world. It offers study groups to help soldiers complete high school; an extensive number is US Armed Forces Institute courses; specialized non-credit course in subjects like speed reading and data processing; and, the University of Maryland Extension, which averages six to ten courses in each of its five eight-week semesters during the year.

Perhaps you are more of the passive type, a television fan. Kagnew can satisfy you with the Army's oldest TV station and, AM and FM radio, the first for hard rock fans and the second for easy listeners.(Of course those of us on post couldnt watch TV .. being directly under the tower the picture rolled and gave u a big headache-ED)

And, if you happen to be a family man, the station has comfortable quarters, a dependent school that offers kindergarten through accredited senior high school classes and a private nursery school. In addition, Asmara is a city of the five-cent bus ride. It's not only possible to live nicely, but also to save coins.(Closer to living like a Columbian Cocaine Baron!!!!-ED)

Finally, in the list of superlatives is an indefinable contributing sprit. It no doubt stems from the high percentage of participation in command and community affairs. One example will do: the Army Security Agency Benefit Association. Kagnew Station set the record in 1968 for a single ASA post with a contribution of $4,200. In 1969 it jumped this figure to $6,300. (Never heard of it-ED)

Yes, the Army is in Africa. But it's the beginning of the earth, and one of the most enjoyable and interesting tours in ASA.(Amen! and it wasnt anywhere near Vietnam! - ED)